Thursday, January 29, 2009

Beachward Bound for a Siesta in Cuesta...

Just half an hour away from the neon tackiness and glitzy excess of Acapulco, (host to a stag weekend of 35 guys from my school as of tomorrow...need I say more??!) lies the tiny, tranquil haven of Pie de La Cuesta, a spit of land with just a few peaceful posadas, and a wide expanse of golden sand on one side, and a sleepy lagoon on the other. Lazy days reading in hammocks, goldfish-bowl cocktails at sunset, simple seafood from shoreline shacks, and long walks along the beach with the backdrop of a breathtakingly wild and madly dramatic sea. With zero nightlife, and just one fish restaurant that sets up candlelit tables where the waves break,, it is the perfect chilled out getaway destination for the upcoming long weekend....

People drive out all the way from Acapulco just to view the glorious sunsets at Pie de la Cuesta, sitting on the sand in rows as if at a cinema screening....

What is there not to like about escaping to the beach in Mexico? When there is such a wealth of beautiful choices?

Playa de La Ropa, Zihuatenejo, early morning...


Isla Espiritu Santo, Baja California....

Playa Pichilingue, Baja California (the name a supposed corruption of "Speak English?").....

Malecon, La Paz, Baja California...

Overlooking Playa de la Ropa, Zihuatenejo...

So do you prefer going "loco down in Acapulco" or having a "siesta in Cuesta"??

All it leaves for me to say is wherever you are or wherever you are going...... have a great weekend and CHEERS!!

See more My World Tuesday posts at www.showyourworldblogspot.com

Monday, January 26, 2009

Cops cop a colour makeover in the Big Taco!

Much has been written about the corruption and dodgy dealings of the Police Force in Mexico and other countries in South and Central America, and unfortunately from my experience it is all totally true, with many friends here being victim to the "mordita" (ie bribe...literally "little bite") or worse the personal police escort to the ATM to extract a "larger payment" negotiated on the way. Always told to avoid the Police here at all costs, my worst encounter so far happens to be a genuine mistake, whereby not wearing my glasses one evening, I hailed a Police car instead of a cab, but fortunately escaped with just a severe dressing down...
This post however will focus on the lighter side of the Long Arm of the Law, starting with the recent colour makeover for the traffic cops. Before they wore sombre, dark uniforms, but now they have been touched up with Mexican colours in chilli red and lime with new fluorescent green caps and armbands, plus the piece de la resistance - the red baton which not only glows in the dark, Luke Skywalker light sabre-style, but positively flashes disco-style (or epileptic-style!)

Check out the before and after...

Before - female traffic cop directing the traffic on Paseo de Reforma, DF.

After - female traffic cop eating, drinking, and directing traffic on Paseo de Reforma, DF.

Incidentally cops are always eating, drinking, (and smoking before the ban) on duty. Mexico has recently tried to improve literacy amongst cops with compulsory literature lessons, and cut down on obesity with cash for weight reduction programmes. Other silly and unprofessional behaviour on duty includes:-

Taking photos whilst whizzing up and down the pavement on their latest toys - the new issue Segways for the Reforma weekend pavement cops..

And making wrongful arrests... no doubt in this case for lewd and indecent behaviour (by a papier-mache model!)

May the Force Be With You!!

MyWorldTuesday at www.showyourworld.blogspot.com

Thursday, January 22, 2009

Getting shirty Mexican-style

Don't you just love these gorgeous, traditional Mexican shirts that look so great on the guys here, young and old alike? They are set off a treat by the crowning glory of the choice of hat...just so cool!! As you can see, I am back to the vibrancy of colour here in Mexico!
This handsome style is so versatile and worn on a wide range of occasions....
Selling produce in Tepoztlan market.....

Playing mariachi music at the Tepoztlan Carnival.....

Travelling by boat to the Island of Janitzio, Lake Patzcuaro, for the Easter Holiday celebration....

Enjoying Good Friday with the family on the Island of Janitzio....


Graveyard decoration and vigil, Day of the Dead, Real de Catorce...

What are you enjoying about the style of dress around you right now??

Tuesday, January 20, 2009

Seeing it in Black and White

Seeing a black President entering the White House for the first time today, and seeing so much hope invested in him, as both black and white communities claim him for their own as a new, possible definition of what it can be to be American beyond colour, set me musing......
Musings about the colours themselves, the absence of colour, the possibility of moving beyond colour and the notion of transparency and clarity. Monochrome tones are not what I usually associate with Mexico, as my recent postings on the vibrancy of red, blue and green will testify, but in honour of Obama setting up in the White House, I thought I would see what images I could find to express his union of black and white...

Celebration at Obama's victory was resounding here, so let's start with a truly Mexican image of the Alcatrace lily... a beautiful flower that figures so prominently in the art of one of Mexico's greatest painters, Diego Rivera... (Morelia)


The striking combination of the white water set against the blackness in these two monochromatic images begins to symbolise the union.... ( Fountain in Guanajuato )


(Fountain in the Eduardo Ruiz National Park, Uruapan, Michoacan)


And the swirling of black, white and greys in the clouds, rocks, fog, snow, mist and hail at the crater of the Nevado de Toluca Volcano (shot in May! ) suggests movement beyond colour...

The final image is a reminder that beauty and symbolism can be found in the most ordinary of objects... the hope of transparency and clarity shining in a newly-shaped translucent world...



Recycling container for plastic bottles ( Chapultepec Park, Mexico City )

How would you express what this special day means for you??

Sunday, January 18, 2009

Underrated Uruapan - Viva Obama!

Many travellers use Uruapan (Purepecha for "Eternal Spring") simply as a base to get out to Volcano Paricutin, dismissing the town as too ugly, too depressing or too ordinary, even for a first, let alone a second look.

True that may be first impressions, but essentially I beg to differ, and feel that Uruapan's charm lies precisely in its atmospheric authenticity, friendly feel, and total lack of tourists, plus its proximity to outstanding natural beauty.

Renowned as Mexico's avocado capital, what other town has this kind of tropical rainforest ( Eduardo Ruiz National Park), right on the doorstop, located only ten minutes walk from the zocalo?

The beauty of the wild orchids, trumpet flowers, lush foliage,waterfalls, deep pools and rushing rivers are all so accessible. On certain days it even has its own local cliff divers.

The National Park also has its own trout farm, and located at the top end is a humble little restaurant that serves an astonishing array of tasty trout dishes, including this trout cerviche, washed down by huge margaritas and tequilas ( courtesy of the friendly locals on the neighbouring table!)


Strolling the serene, shady paths, it is hard to remember a busy, bustling town is so nearby.

Back in town, architecture and interiors are characterised by intricately detailed wooden carvings and panels, including the best cafe in town, where we managed to squeeze in five meals in two days. This is also a special place because it is where we watched McCain concede and celebrated Obama being hailed as the next President Elect, amidst resounding cheers, which seems timely to mention in light of the upcoming inauguration on Tuesday.

Where were you when you heard or saw such historic news??

(Uruapan is located in the State of Michoacan about 6 hours from Mexico City.)

Sunday, January 11, 2009

Back in the Red!

No, I am not referring to the current financial doom and gloom!! Having posted recently on the green heart of DF, and getting back to the blues of Mexico, today I happen to be in the mood for red, and as with all colours in Mexico, there happens to be no shortage of inspiration around, be it from the world of Nature or the world of Art and Artisans.

Red hibiscus flower - beach resort of Zihuatenejo.

Here in Mexico, I am more alert to colour than any other country I have lived in, and nowhere does it manifest itself more clearly than in the vibrant work of local artisans...

Textiles from the State of Chiapas.


Chilli pepper ceramics from Taxco.

Basketry also from Taxco.

Vintage Corona beer tray from the antiques market in Puebla.


Even round and about the streets of Mexico City yesterday, the artists' colour of choice was a very vibrant red...


Sculpture Installation currently outside Palacio de Bellas Artes - Bicicletas - Gilberto Navarro.


Red Chair - part of the chair exhibition on Reforma, Df that seems to have become a permanent fixture.

And lastly one more final image from Nature...

Flower nochebuena (poinsettia) which is indigenous to Mexico and adorns everyones' houses at Christmas time, and is planted all around the city at this time of year.

Indeed my apartment interior has been dubbed El Palacio Rojo (The Red Palace) because it is decorated entirely in bright reds with a touch of green ie chilli and lime... something that would look dead naff and tacky ie "naco" in London, but with the light and vibrancy works beautifully here ( I hope!!). PS: The word palace is purely ironic.

What colour is inspiring you most at the start of a New Year 2009??

Thursday, January 8, 2009

Soaking it up in San Miguel....

Some tend to avoid San Miguel as they perceive it to be "non-Mexican", due to the high numbers of N.American retirees who flocked here to live or buy second homes, when the town was voted in a Top Ten of ideal places to retire.

True, there is a strong, older N.American presence, but they tend to be of the quiet, inobtrusive variety, not only thoroughly into Mexican culture, but also off the streets and safely tucked up in bed by 9pm, so consequently the heart and soul of San Miguel, as essentially a Mexican town, remains very much intact.

I love coming here for a number of reasons. Firstly, as a woman of a certain age myself, it is a town where I always feel immediately rejuvenated and youthful with a spring in my step...
Secondly the charm of the quiet cobbled, colonial streets in ochre, russet and dusky pink hues never fails to be a constant, calming source of wonder and delight....

Thirdly, and probably mainly due to its new community, it is full of a wide range of great local art work, crafts, galleries, restaurants and cafes. My favourite place for breakfast is "El Buen Cafe" and dinner a toss up between "Tio Lucas" and "The Restaurant". My favourite place to stay is the converted monastery "Las Monjas" (500 pesos a double ).
Finally, what I really love most about this town and what keeps drawing me back for yet another weekend, is that you can always count on certainties never changing, and always being here in rather an iconic fashion......

The Mariachis always hanging out in the Zocalo...


The old, forlorn, disused petrol-pump always sitting on this corner...


The best looking bar cantina in Mexico always sitting on this corner...



And finally, the best looking horse in Mexico always standing outside the Cathedral......

What can you count on being there when you return to a much-loved, favourite place??

Friday, January 2, 2009

Chilling out Chilango-style in Chapultepec Park

Mexico City may be a bustling megalopolis with 22 million plus people who work very hard with very few holidays, but when those weekends and holidays do come around Chilangos ( Mexico City dwellers ) like nothing better than finding a favourite place to chill out; and there sure are a lot of lounge locations right in the heart of the city.
One such destination on New Year's Day is Chapultepec Park and here it is de rigeur to stroll with the family, go boating on the lake, consume endless snacks, buy souvenirs, watch street performers, and generally savour the moment.
Here are the popular paddle boats:-

but as you can see there is far less paddling and much more chilling....



Check out the fluorescent colours of the snacks on offer.....

Chilli potato crisps with lime.....

Candy floss of a particularly vibrant hue...

More lurid potato snacks....

And check out the equally vibrant colours of the souvenirs on offer....


Lucha Libre ( Mexican wrestling ) masks...

There are always brightly-coloured balloons for sale in all public parks and plazas....

Safety harnesses for kids....


The festive but laid-back and relaxing atmosphere coupled with the combination of sounds, sights, and smells all make it a gourmet feast for the senses; and consequently one of my favourite places to hang out for a Sunday afternoon. Where is your city chill-out zone of choice?