Wednesday, April 1, 2009

Mission Impossible?? - Jalpan and the Sierra Gorda Missions

Lonely Planet will tell you it is pretty difficult without your own transport, but if you are up for adventure and don't mind second class buses ( just like Greyhound my NY travel companion commented) and 860 hairpin bends through the mountains of the Sierra Gorda, then head for Jalpan as there are some real jewels awaiting you.

The jewels are in the form of five Mission churches all built by the Franciscan Fray Junipero Serra in the mid eighteenth century who subsequently went on to found a whole host of much more austere Missions in California, USA and Baja California, Mexico. The Sierra Gorda Missions are distinguished by their fine colourful facades and fine ornate detail...


This particular detail depicts the familiar Franciscan symbol showing the interlinking of the arm of Christ and the arm of the Franciscan. These five Mission Churches were awarded UNESCO World Heritage status in 2003, but being in such a remote region they are still largely unvisited... Here is the beautiful facade of the Conca Mission.....

And here is an example of the exquisite carving at the Landa de Matamoros Mission.....


The remaining two Missions are at Tilaco and Tancoyol, although the latter is still in need of much restoration work. To get to the Missions take a three hour bus from Mexico City to either Queretaro or Tequisquiapan, and then a second class Flecha Amarillo through the mountains for four hours to Jalpan. Hotel Maria del Carmen provides a good base in Jalpan, and negotiating with a friendly taxi driver will get you a six hour tour of all four Mission churches for just 600 pesos... a bargain!! It is an off the beaten track trip which is well worth the effort!!

11 comments:

Hey Harriet said...

Going by what you've shared here, I'd certainly be up for the adventure of visiting!

Bob Mrotek said...

I have never seen the sign of St. Francis called a "coat of arms" before. It does have a proper name. It is called the "Tau".
http://mexicobob.blogspot.com/2008/03/tau-tav-ansata-ta.html

Catherine said...

Thanks for the correction Bob!! have you visited these churches yourself???

Bob Mrotek said...

No, Catherine, I haven't been to see the Sierra Gorda churches yet but it is on my list of things to do. I am a big fan of St. Francis and Junipero Serra was one tough hombre. The history of the Franciscans in Mexico is fascinating.

Catherine said...

I would like to read more about the history of Serra and the Franciscans here...can you point me towards any good books???

Bob Mrotek said...

Well, Catherine, that's a pretty tall order. There is no one book that I could send you to. First of all you should read about the basic story of St. Francis of Assisi and you can find that on the Internet. The "Tau" that we were talking about is generally reserved as a sign for the "Tercer Orden" of St. Francis which is made up of lay people. The Tercer Orden" played a political role in Mexico during the Reforma. Then there are the various orders of St Francis, each with a political patron within the church usually in the form of a cardinal and these various orders were also of different countries. It would take many books to take in all of this. I wouldn't even know where to start. I guess the best path would be to start with St. Francis and his encounter with the cross of San Damiano and work your way up. He was not a "prissy" type guy as he is often pictured by the way. He was fat and ugly (a lot like me) by all accounts. He was a reformer at a time when the church needed reform. Junipero Serra was cut out of the same mold and I suggest that you read about him also and then decide where you might like to go from there. It might even be a bit scary. I would like to talk to you about this subject sometime. It is an important subject if you want to learn the history of Mexico but I warn you. It is a bit long and complicated.

Fly Girl said...

I'm not a huge fan of Catholic Churches but you also reflect such fascinating examples in your posts. Franciscan history is indeed interesting, you inspire me to investigate when I'm in Mexico again.

Catherine said...

Hi Fly Girl... these Missions are certainly fascinating to visit...hope you get back to Mexico soon...

A Cuban In London said...

I was missing your articles, Catherine. And you images, too. These shots are amazing and the commentary first-class. I'm off to enjoy the rest of your reportage. Many thanks.

Greetings from London.

Catherine said...

Hi Cuban...greetings from Mexico!! thanks so much for your generous comments...much appreciated..

Catherine said...

Hi Bob...thanks so much for taking the time to point me in the direction of further research... very much appreciated..